“Kusempondozenkomo”, remarked the cattle farmer as the Caravelle breasted the the crest of Mt. West, with Inhhlazuka mountain proudly silhouetted opposite. Sure enough, the horns of the cattle, cudding in the pastures, could just be made out, indicating the Zulu dawn breaking. Etosha was still over 2,000kms away, but adventure lay ahead and the party was on.
Bethlehem, boiled eggs. bacon sarmies, boerewors and boeretroos soon beckoned and a sheltered site provided a relaxed breakfast stop near this pleasant town. Travelling in a leisurely fashion Bloemfontein was bypassed and Bishops Lodge in Kimberley occupied by 3pm. Kimberley is still a gem, for those with time, and the historic war games at the famous battle of Magersfontein, were an eye opener for most of the party. Museums and history abound here, and 2 sleeps were a minimum requirement.
Campbeltown, with David Livingstones church and a welcome petrol pump, was the next pause before Griquatown, and Mary Moffat’s house. This rather drab exhibition was in stark contrast to the fabulous local gemstone factory, where bargains galore were to be found and expounded on by the genial proprietor. Upington came and went as a huge disppointment, earning the title of cesspit of Orange. Kakamas and Belvedere Guest lodge, beautifully decorated in “farmers” baroque, our shelter for 2 nights, was a welcome stop. Obviously there by divine guidance, we learned that our host was the regional dominee, and farmer nogal, and a better tour guide we have yet to meet. Goat, dairy, table and wine farm tours followed in succession, with comprehensive briefing and viewing of the Orange River canal and weir systems fascinating the company. Somehow the majestic Aughrabies Falls was shoehorned into the arrangements, eliciting very positive comment. Reinforced with a table reminiscent of the heydays of the Roman Empire, this was a golden stop.
Kakamas to Marienthal was a journey dictated by necessity rather than desire, requiring border formalities and 60 kms of nasty road, and needs no further comment. Team spirit carried the day, helped by the remarkable but barren Namibian scenery. The farmers were amazed by the good condition of livestock, with no green around, and the driver was elated by the lack of pedestrians and other traffic. Comment – avoid Marienthal, but never a petrol station! The short trip to Windhoek and the “New Nouveau”, Cape Chic decorated guest house, was rewarded with the news of the successful world cup soccer bid and the sight of head and antlers of a massive Kudu bull, shot that day by the proprietor. Needless to say, the celebrations were raucous, the owner being a lady originating in Worcester, Cape. A leisurely Saturday afternoon was sufficient time to see the sights of picturesque Windhoek, capped by a typical German meal in a friendly stubli. A bountiful breakfast was to precede the attractive drive through Otjiwarongo and Outjo, to our next stop, Oukuakejo, Etosha national park.
A welcome oasis, Okuakejo has generous sized double rooms and an attractive shady camp, with a 24 hour convenience water hole on the premises. Birds and animals alike provide an interesting and mobile parade, and this is viewing at armchair best. Supplies in the shop were adequate and the dining arrangements looked impressive, if fairly dear. A rewarding day was rounded off with a lengthy braai, complete with brain enhancers, and a peaceful night.
An unhurried transfer between Oukuakejo and Namutoni reveals massive herds of Zebra, Wildebeest and Springbok, with lesser scatterings of Gemsbok, Ostrich and Kudu and a few glimpses of Elephant, Steenbok, Klipspringer, Jackals, Suricates and other smaller bush denizens. Bustard, Korhaan, Seretary birds, Cranes, Guinea fowl, Francolin, Sand grouse and veritable choirs of Pale chanting goshawks were abundant, compared to our home parks, and although the range of species seems less, it is definitely not disappointing. Namutoni chalet accommodation was less impressive, but the drives revealed a plethora of water birds, including large flocks of colourful Flamingoes. Colonies of Banded Mongoose shared our patch and several Jackal came to ogle the braai, whilst upturned dustbins next morning, were evidence of other illegal overnight visitors.
Next mornings breakfast was postponed to brunch at civilised Tsumeb, where necessary purchases and services were available, on the easy attractive route to foggy Swakomund and Duneside. All expectations were met when we reached this friendly venue, and the tourist information was again out of the top drawer. Walvis Bay is a recommended easy excursion, fascinatingly juxtaposed between water and desert, with upmarket townhouse developments springing up between the statuesque sand dunes. A farewell fling at the Brauhaus, with it’s jolly ambiance was one of the highlights of the visit, and photographs of the beautiful gardens bely its desert surroundings. Regretfully, Swakop and its mentor, Rossing uranium mine, were taken leave of for the next step to the”Broeihuis” at Witvlei – Gobabis, and the long pull through Botswana to Zeerust.
The afternoon walk at Witvlei revealed the remains of a once thriving ostrich industry, and the party found themselves housed in the converted hatchery! Any reservations about this situation were soon erased with the arrival of mine host, who proved highly entertaining and hospitable. The highlight of the evening was the arrival, at about 9pm, of a donkey cart drawn by 2 zebra/donkeys, en route to Swakopmund, some 500 kms away, in order to raise funds for the cancer society! Needless to say the assembled guests contributed generously, over good food and liquid refreshment, with the hardy and eloquent fundraisers. The longest day, nearly 1,000 kms to Zeerust, lay in wait and a false alarm from the thin red head man, at 4.30am, instead of 5.30, saw the group on it’s way very promptly, the next morning.
Nobody was enjoying the prospect of an all day journey, but a welcome tea break with friends and sandwiches near Ghanzi, cheered every one. The excellent trans Kgalagadi highway made the kms fly, and except for tiresome customs formalities adding over an hour, the trip in to Zeerust and ”Le Kraal” was not as irksome as expected. Out host, Mel, was up there with the best in the hospitality stakes, and regrets were expressed about having to leave after the short stop, for our last sleep at Gauteng by the mountains.
Coligny, Lichtenburg,Klerksdorp, Kroonstad, rolled by on the unfamiliar roads South East, through some productive looking enclaves, and soon after a lunch picnic break, Bethlehem hove into view once again. The up route was not repeated however, as there was still time to view the Denmar empire and Surrender Hill, on the beautiful drive to Clarens, via the scenic diversion through Fouriesburg. Much impressed by the high tech apple and cherry orchards, and the “skande” of the Boers’ capitulation in the Brandwater Basin, the jovial party prepared to celebrate for the last time. Our comfortable lodgings were again complemented by the good table served at Clementines and the remaining wine stocks were taken care of, resulting in a few lamentable lapses of decorum by certain members, who at this stage, shall remain unnamed!
An easy run down to Pietermaritzburg, after some indulgence in the tempting shopping fare in Clarens, through more beautiful scenery, resulted in the regretful return to reality, with fond farewells bade, as the team disbanded for respective home climes.
